Keep it well.
It will last.

Washing

Hand-wash in cool or lukewarm water. Hot water felts protein fibers. Once it's happened, it cannot be undone. Fill a basin, add a small amount of wool wash or mild soap (Eucalan, Soak, or a drop of dish soap in a pinch), submerge the skein or finished piece, and let it soak for ten to fifteen minutes.

Do not agitate. Wool felts from friction as much as from heat. Lift it out gently, press against the side of the basin to drain, and support the weight of the wet fiber. Do not let it hang.

To remove excess water, lay the piece flat in a clean towel, roll the towel, and press firmly. Do not wring. Repeat with a second towel if needed.

Nylon-blend sock bases

The sock bases in the range carry nylon for abrasion resistance: 75/25 Superwash Merino/Nylon and 80/20 Superwash Blue Faced Leicester/Nylon. Nylon is what lets a hand-knit sock survive a winter of wear, and it forgives more than a pure wool would. Be gentle with them anyway. They will last longer for it.

Blue Faced Leicester has a long, lustrous staple. It takes dye deeply and drapes more than merino does, which is why the reds on that base read as lit from within. It wants cool water and slow handling to keep that lustre.

Drying

Dry flat, away from direct sunlight and heat. Blocking mats, a clean towel on a flat surface, or a sweater drying rack all work. Do not hang wet wool. Gravity and water weight will distort the shape while it dries.

Most pieces are dry within twelve to twenty-four hours in a reasonably ventilated room. Heavier items like shawls and sweaters take longer. Give them the time.

Blocking

Blocking is the process of wetting, pinning, and drying a finished piece into its final shape. Wool has memory: once blocked and dried, it will hold that form. For lace especially, blocking is not optional; it opens the pattern and makes the stitches readable.

Wet blocking: soak the piece in cool water until fully saturated, press out the excess (no wringing), and pin to measurements on a foam blocking mat. Use blocking wires for straight edges and lines of pins for curves.

Steam blocking: for items that do not need aggressive reshaping, hold a steam iron two to three inches above the surface and let the steam penetrate the fiber. Do not press down. Let it cool before unpinning.

Every base in rotation is superwash. Superwash wool has less memory than untreated wool and may relax back toward its original shape after blocking. Pin tighter and let dry completely before moving.

Storage

Store finished pieces and skeins in a cool, dry place away from direct light. UV exposure fades dyes over time. Hand-dyed fiber is more susceptible than commercially dyed yarn. A drawer, a box, a bag: any of these are fine. Avoid cedar balls in direct contact with the fiber; the oils can transfer.

Moths are a real concern for wool. Cedar, lavender sachets, or sealed storage containers all help. If you find evidence of moths, isolate the affected fiber immediately and freeze it for at least seventy-two hours.

Color fastness

Hand-dyed yarn is dyed with acid dyes fixed with heat and vinegar, or with fiber-reactive dyes when the base carries cellulose. When properly processed, the color is stable, but some bleed during the first wash, particularly saturated dark colorways like Depths. This is normal and not a defect.

For the first wash of dark colorways, add a splash of white vinegar to the wash water. Wash alone, not with other fiber. After the first wash, bleed is minimal. Do not wash hand-dyed fiber with light-colored yarns or garments until you know how the colorway behaves.